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Oven & Cooktop2 min read · Published 2026-10-01 · Reviewed 2026-10-01 · By TrueFix Service Team

Oven Not Heating or Heating Unevenly

Quick answer

An oven that won't heat at all usually points to a failed igniter (gas) or a failed bake element (electric). Uneven heating is more often a temperature sensor out of calibration or a door seal issue than a major part failure — both worth checking before assuming the worst.

Safety first

If a gas oven's burner clicks repeatedly without igniting, or you smell gas, stop using it. See our guide on what to do if you smell gas from an appliance.

What you can check yourself

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When to call a technician

Call a technician for a confirmed failed igniter or bake element, or if an oven thermometer shows the actual temperature is consistently off from the setting — that's a sensor or control board issue, not something to adjust around indefinitely.

Why uneven baking is often a sensor problem, not a hot-spot problem

It's intuitive to assume uneven baking (browner on one side, for example) is about airflow or a physical hot spot, but a miscalibrated temperature sensor causing the oven to cycle on and off at the wrong actual temperature is a more common root cause — the oven thinks it's at 350°F when it's really running hotter or cooler, which shows up as inconsistent results even in a perfectly even oven cavity.

A quick calibration check before calling

Many ovens have a built-in temperature offset/calibration setting in the control menu — check your manual for how to access it on your model. If an oven thermometer shows you're consistently, say, 25°F off from the display, adjusting the calibration offset can resolve uneven-seeming results without any part replacement at all.

A note on this brand's codes: GE ovens show specific codes for temperature-related faults (F2/F20, F3/F4) — see our GE oven code guide if your display shows one of those.

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FAQ

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How long should a gas igniter glow before the burner lights?

Typically under a minute; if it's visibly glowing for 90 seconds or more before (or without) the burner catching, the igniter has weakened and is drawing too little current to open the gas valve.

Can I replace a bake element myself?

It's one of the more DIY-accessible oven repairs on some models (a few screws and a plug-in connection), but we'd still recommend having a technician confirm it's actually the element and not something else causing the same symptom.

Is it normal for ovens to need recalibration over time?

Some drift is normal, especially on older units — a small calibration adjustment is a routine fix, not a sign something is broken.

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